Aldi stores across south-west France, from the Rhône Valley to Bordeaux, have become flashpoints of protest after controversial comments by the discount retailer’s national wine, beer and spirits buyer, Roger Anthony, triggered outrage among the country’s embattled winemakers.
Speaking to the French wine industry website Vitisphere on 14 June, Anthony claimed that wines priced as low as €1.99 a bottle, including well-known appellations such as Bordeaux and Côtes du Rhône, were still profitable for growers. “We respect our growers,” he added – a remark that only fanned the flames of discontent in one of France’s most prestigious wine regions.
In response, protests were quickly organised by the Young Farmers (Jeunes Agriculteurs) and FDSEA agricultural unions, culminating in demonstrations outside Aldi branches throughout wine-producing areas. Growers waved banners and handed out leaflets to shoppers, arguing that the German retailer’s pricing strategy was “unsustainable” and “irresponsible”.
“It’s important to remember that selling bottles of Bordeaux at less than €3 – which is under the cost of production – puts thousands of Bordeaux winegrowers in danger,” said the unions in a joint statement to regional daily Sud-Ouest.
Growers argue that such low retail prices not only undermine their hard work and heritage but also set unrealistic expectations in a market already struggling with overproduction, declining consumption, and increasing international competition. They say that Aldi’s strategy squeezes margins to a breaking point, leaving small producers unable to survive.
According to figures from FranceAgriMer, the average cost of producing a bottle of Bordeaux is well above €3, with some appellations requiring even more to break even due to the costs of labour, land, compliance, and sustainable practices. Selling at €1.99, they argue, is tantamount to economic sabotage.
Aldi France has not issued a formal response to the protests, but internal sources indicate the company maintains its belief that volume-based retailing and streamlined supply chains allow for aggressive pricing without undermining growers.
However, viticultural associations are calling for government intervention and urging major retailers to engage in more transparent, fair-trade negotiations with producers.
This controversy highlights a growing tension in the French wine industry: the balance between offering consumers competitive pricing and ensuring the long-term viability of traditional winegrowing. As France’s agricultural sector faces mounting economic and climate-related pressures, the question remains – at what cost should wine be sold?